Anyone who has ever engaged in a creative act knows it requires the ability to place oneself in two realities: in the realm of what is and the realm of imagination for all that can be. Driving the streets of Greenwich (that’s “green-witch,” NY, not “gren-itch,” CT) with my guide, Bethany Parks, who has devoted her own passion and creativity to renovating not only an old home but an old neighborhood in the historic town, we travel through both of these realms.
Pointing out the window, Parks draws my attention to the original leaded glass above 83 Main Street that was once hiding under panes of wood, revealed when her partner, Mark Samu, began renovations of his own. (Samu will open a photography gallery in the space on October 1.) We drive past homes where DIYers have brought their own sense of artistry to their renovations—a process Parks’ friend and local business owner Rulyn Graves’ daughter, Haley, is engaged in right now. When we make a pit stop for coffee at Clutch, a new shop opened by the Graves family in early June, Rulyn is there with her husband, Tom, who proudly pulls up a video of the couple’s daughter weeding through the left-behinds of her home’s previous owner. The can-do spirit is alive and well in Greenwich.
For every business we pass that catches my eye (like Pennywise’s whimsical, colorful storefront) there seems to be at least two more popping up that Parks excitedly fills me in on. “That’s going to be the new Dominican restaurant,” she tells me, pointing further up the road.
As Parks and I talk renovations and community spirit, I’m reminded of Maggie Smith’s poem “Good Bones,” which ends with one of my favorite lines in all of poetry. “You could make this place beautiful,” Smith writes of our often-too-dark world. Out here in Greenwich, Parks, Samu, Graves, and a host of other folks are doing just that: showing up as a community to create and build the magic they wish to see. Here’s how to experience the spirit of Greenwich firsthand:
Eat
Rural upstate New York towns aren’t usually known for being hubs of globally minded cuisine. Greenwich, however, challenges this stereotype. Those exploring the small town’s food scene will quickly discover a wide variety of flavors ranging from Coffee And’s Swedish sweets to A Little Paris’ savory French crepes. Meanwhile, those looking for a sit-down meal can opt for all-American pub fare at Wallie’s, Alsatian/German cuisine at Elsasser’s Beim 111 or a taste of the Caribbean at House of Flavor by Maggie.
For the hard-core foodies who are game to drive an extra 20 minutes outside of the village, a stop at the New Skete Monasteries in Cambridge can lead one to taste what many claim is the finest cheesecake in the country. Made by hand by the Eastern Orthodox nuns in between prayer and monastic duties, these small-batch cheesecakes are sold in the monastery’s gift shop and self-service vestibule. Sure, you can also order them online—but why turn down an adventure?
Play
Less than a 10-minute drive from Main Street, golfers can hit the links at Windy Hills Golf Course. Surrounded by views of gentle hills and clear ponds, the 18-hole course is a great way to get out and spend some time being active while appreciating Greenwich’s natural beauty. With pros on site to offer lessons, you don’t have to be an expert to get out and play. (Plus, there’s always the course’s restaurant, The Greenhouse, to hole up in.)
For those who’d rather hit the trail, head to the Dionondahowa Falls trailhead. The 0.6-mile out-and-back trail is an easy but rewarding hike, leading you to an overlook where you can admire the cascading falls. It’s a family-friendly hike (dogs too!), so round everyone up for a quick jaunt in nature. Head over to Argyle Brewing Company’s Tap Room when you’re done for a pint and some live music.
Shop
Every day trip requires some fuel for the journey: a fresh cup of coffee. For a morning brew or mid-afternoon pick-me-up, step inside the aforementioned Clutch Market—a general store/artist’s market located at 101 Main Street. Clutch owners Tom and Rulyn Graves, along with their kids Collin and Haley, partner with local makers and farmers to bring sustainably sourced products into the heart of the village. Not only can you get all the fixings for a decadent charcuterie board, but you can also find functional pottery to serve your tasty treats in.
A few doors down from Clutch is one of the greater Capital Region’s best-kept secrets: the Pennywise Shoppe, a consignment store stocked full of forgotten treasures. It’s been almost 20 years since Pennywise first opened its doors in 1995, and while it’s changed owners since then, the eccentric second-hand shop remains a staple of Greenwich, marrying the quaint with the creative.
Stepping from Clutch to Pennywise feels like an apt metaphor for Greenwich: a village where what’s old and new are neighbors, and where there’s plenty of room for both preserving history and looking to the future.
